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A few photographs from Zambia

Sunday, October 3rd, 2010

A couple of people have been asking about what it’s like here in Zambia, so I thought I’d post a few photographs. I’ve not taken many pictures since I got here, and I’ve only used my phone camera, as I feel like I stand out enough without holding an expensive SLR.

As I mentioned before, some of the roads are pretty close to not being roads at all. In fact, it’s rather better driving on a surface like this than on a road with occasional chunks of raised tarmac still around.

Our journey to work takes us through some of the high-density housing districts, which can be seen at the background of this picture. The contrast between the middle-class areas and the poorer parts is striking.

The majority of people in Lusaka get around by walking or by bus. The buses are all blue and white minibuses, which all seem to be crammed with twice the number of people that would be reasonable. As far as I can tell the driver owns their own bus and personalises it to their taste (notwithstanding the enforced colour scheme). Most drivers choose to decorate their bus with nicknames or slogans, often with a religious bent (though sometimes that religion is Manchester United). My favourite example declares, in big red capitals, “NO JESUS NO LIFF!”

The relatively small proportion of people who own cars doesn’t do much to counter the traffic congestion problems. Most intersections lack traffic lights, and can be a bit of a free-for-all. The picture above was taken at the point of turning right, merging into a queue of traffic.

Zambian driving style is remarkably relaxed in most respects. Certainly the rules of the road aren’t taken too seriously, and when merging with traffic assertiveness (i.e. shoving your way in regardless of anyone else) is seemingly expected. The ‘Lusaka shove’ works much like the ‘London shove’, except that the former is much less likely to provoke anger.

That’s not to say that the horn isn’t used in Lusaka, but it seems less to communicate anger with an idiot driver (as in London or Paris) than to communicate a general frustration with the world around you.

One of the drawbacks of having a banana tree in your back garden is that you have no bananas for 360 days of the year, and for 5 days you have more bananas than  you can possibly imagine, until they go black and have to be turned into banana bread.

Things I’ve observed in my first week in Zambia

Saturday, September 4th, 2010
  • “How are you?” is a standard part of the greeting ritual, even in contexts such as shops where English custom is barely to acknowledge a greeting. For all that, the greeting is no less ritualised than in England, and any non-positive response to the question seems like it would generate surprise. In fact, the protocol is sufficiently habituated that even if your responses come out of order, it barely seems to derail things.
  • The roads vary from bad to terrible to “pretty much just a matter of convention”. This is made more difficult by the large numbers of pedestrians, and at night by the almost complete lack of street lighting. Much as I hate driving with an automatic transmission on the open road, given the constant speeding up and slowing down to weave round pedestrians, pot-holes and speed bumps not worrying about changing gear is actually a benefit. The speed bumps are often unmarked, and the easiest way to spot them is that men tend to stand in the middle of them, taking advantage of the slowing down of traffic to sell you mobile phone top-ups.
  • Speaking of mobile phones, I think the growth in mobile phone usage surprised even the mobile phone industry. On the surface of it you might assume that people who struggle to afford to eat wouldn’t be bothering with phones, but they are big business over here, and not just among the middle classes. The prevalence of pay as you go credit sold in tiny amounts and of extremely cheap handsets (I’m using a $10 handset for the duration of my stay, and it’s as good as my old Nokia 3310 of a decade ago) has meant that owning a phone is the rule and not the exception.
  • There’s a class hierarchy that I find it hard to get used to. For sure, England has rich and poor people, but middle-class guilt and inverted snobbery mean that class is almost never explicitly referred to. I’ll have more to say on this later, as I feel it’s worth a whole post in itself.
  • The money takes some getting used to. Like many developing countries, Zambia has had its problems with inflation, to the point where 5,000 kwacha will just about buy $1 US. When inflation first started to bite, products were starting to be priced in the thousands but the largest banknote available was still a 20. People took to pinning notes in bundles of 1000 kwacha, hence “pin” remained as slang for 1000 kwacha. Even now, 50,000 (roughly $10 US) is the largest note and I genuinely have trouble closing my wallet.

Video is not a better text

Saturday, September 4th, 2010

In all the discussion of whether the iPad will kill off special-purpose eBook readers, one assumption seems to be going unchallenged on both sides. In balancing the iPad’s multimedia capabilities against the kindle’s light weight and long battery life, the assumption is that adding video and audio to a reading experience adds value; the question is then reduced to whether the additional costs of the device are justified.

I’m not so sure. On the surface, video certainly appears to offer the same content that text does, and do it in a more engaging way. However, difficult as it may be to admit for a technologist, I believe video gives with one hand and takes away with the other.

Consider the way you read a text with intellectually challenging content.  You can speed up, slow down, re-play and pause effortlessly and elegantly compared to the effort of doing the same with a video player. Re-playing an idea on a video player isn’t just inelegant, it’s so inelegant that I imagine it’s almost never done, even when the consumer would benefit from considering the idea again. Indeed, far from making it easy to go back, video pushes relentlessly forward, force-feeding the next sentence with utter disregard as to whether you are finished with the last.

Some may retort that this argument smacks of intellectual elitism, and that video content makes material accessible to the less educated. I wonder whether such people are confusing functional illiteracy (mercifully rare, even if not rare enough) with learned helplessness. Facility with reading develops with practice, and suggesting that reading is too tough for large proportions of the population is defeatism. I’m not even sure if it’s true in the narrowest sense that it’s easier for people to understand video than text (though it may be easier to consume without understanding): I can read a newspaper in French with some success, but give me the same news report in video form and I’m quickly drowned in unfamiliar language.

It’s not just on the consumption side. Composing a text is (to me at least) a calm, intellectual and rewarding process, where care can be taken over structure and thoughts can be put down, picked up and re-polished until they represent the absolute limit of the author’s capabilities. No matter how video recording and editing technology improves, a video blog post still needs to be recorded in one or at most a small number of takes, and considerable effort must go just into making the delivery flow naturally, at the expense of actual content. I’ve paused several times during the writing of this post to re-think, even though I started writing with a fairly clear idea of what I wanted to say.

I’m not naive enough to suppose for a moment that these arguments, even if correct, will slow the adoption of video in place of text. In the end, we choose what to consume more with our instinct than with our intellect. I’d be happier if a few more people displayed evidence of understanding the down side, though.